Posts Tagged ‘jewelry’

Photo Tutorial: Crimping and Crimp Pliers

// November 3rd, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Blog

First, gather your supplies: 

  • Wire (I use Accuflex or Softflex 49-strand .019, this is a medium weight wire good for most beading jobs)
  • Clasp (only one side of my toggle is shown in this photo)
  • Beads that will go between clasp and crimp (make sure the bead hole is wide enough to accommodate two thicknesses of your thread/wire)
  • Crimp beads (I avoid plated crimps and thin metal crimps, opting for thick-walled gold-fill or sterling silver; I use 2x2mm crimps with 3mm crimp covers)
  • Crimp covers (not shown in this photo)
  • Crimp pliers (make sure you’re using the right size crimp pliers; “micro” crimp pliers are for 1x1mm crimp beads and will not work on 2x2mm crimp beads)

Step 2: String one crimp, then a spacer bead, then one end of the clasp onto wire/thread.

Step 3: Loop the wire/thread back through the spacer bead, then the crimp bead.

I do all that about an inch or so from the clasp.

Step 4:  Slide the short half of the thread/wire along with the two beads up toward the clasp.

Step 5:  Use the wonderfully dexterous fingers of one hand to pull the two lines of wire/thread in separate directions. At this point, don’t wig out if your beads slide down the wire a bit (aren’t tight up against the clasp)… try not to let them slip TOO far, but a little space isn’t gonna kill ya… you’ll see why in a second.

Step 6: Place the crimping pliers in a position so that your crimp bead is GENTLY resting in the SECOND set of indents on the pliers.

Now that it’s in position, you use that very talented hand again to pull the wire/thread strands to the sides, and slide your two beads back up toward the clasp if you need to… don’t press the pliers down yet… only enough pressure to slide the beads up.

Step 7: Gently smoosh the crimp pliers down, thus fulfilling the first portion of your crimping process.

If you did it correctly, you should see a “u” shaped crimp bead with one strand of wire/thread on each side of it (more or less). 

 

Step 8: Now you’re going to do the second part of the crimping process. You’re going to be smooshing that U shape closed. Place the crimp SIDEWAYS into the FIRST set of indents on the crimp pliers.

This is a step for which you must take extreme care. Go slowly… screwing up may wreck your entire piece of jewelry (unless you LIKE starting over from the beginning).

When you smoosh the crimp bead in these first indents, make sure your bead doesn’t slip (angle) and end up at a diagonal (or worse!). It must remain upright while you smoosh! You must fold the U perfectly in half.

Step 9: Success should look somewhat like this.

Step 10: Put whatever beads on that go on next, making sure their holes are wide enough to go over two strands of thread/wire.

Step 11: Cut the wire so that the end would end up in the middle of the length of the next bead to be strung on. The only problem you will ever have with this is if you string very loosely; then you run the risk of having your “tail” bit of thread/wire poke out and not be nicely tucked into a bead. If you know you’re going to string loosely, cut flush with a bead (see instructions for crimping the other end … coming up).

Step 12: Put your next bead on, making sure the tail of the thread/wire is tucked into it. All the rest of the beads (until the OTHER end of the piece of jewelry) will merely be strung onto this one thread/wire.

Step 13: Okay, now we’re at the other end of the piece. You put on all the beads you were going to put on and you finish (most likely) the way you started (bead pattern wise). So… the last two things on are a crimp and (in this case) a 5mm Swarovski.

Step 14: Loop that end of the thread/wire through the toggle end of your clasp (or whatever is the OTHER end of your clasp), and then come back around and go through the 5mm Swarovski (your spacer bead) and through the crimp.

… and through two (or however many you decide) regular beads (see note at end of article)… You’ve got room to move around up there, y’know… ’cause that loop around the clasp is plenty slack. Slide the beads however you need to in order to do what you gotta do. We’ll cinch it all up in a second…

Step 15: After you go through two or so beads past the crimp with the tail of the thread/wire, pull down on the tail while holding the last single-threaded bead. This keeps the beads on the necklace/bracelet in place, tight, and merely moves the thread/wire into its cinched up position.

… it is now cinched up…

Step 16: Crimp this bead as you did the other one.

This is what you should end up with.

Under my thumb is the continuation of the necklace.

Step 17:  Clip the short tail of the wire/thread as close to flush with that bead as you can, WITHOUT CUTTING THE LONG WIRE OR YOU WILL BE REDOING YOUR ENTIRE PIECE.

After you clip the tail, your piece should look like this.

Step 18: As a nice touch, we’re going to finish the crimp with a crimp cover.

Step 19: Place the crimp cover around the crimp (will not work with 2x3mm crimps or with crimps improperly crimped). I use my forefinger to hold the back of it up against the crimp while I do this.

Use needle nose pliers (or whatever works for you) to gently start smashing the crimp bead halves until they begin to meet (in a sphere covering your crimp). Now… I say “gently” here because these buggers seem to fall to the ground at least 10 times before I can complete my project. If it starts to slip and you smash too quickly, you will end up with a very crooked affair.

I stop before the crimp cover is all the way closed…  See why? It’s slightly off center. But I don’t wig out. All I was trying to do at first was close it enough so that it won’t fall off as I’m trying to work with it.

Step 20: Use  needle nose pliers to get a better “fit” on the straightening out and closing of the crimp covers (one on each crimp).

A couple of notes/tips:

  • Don’t do the crimps until you’re piece is complete and checked for accuracy and correct length.
  • I prefer to err on the side of having WAY too much thread/wire as opposed to the alternate which includes not having enough length to finish your project or having only just enough to fight and struggle with it during the crimping process.
  • Practice and time will eventually teach you how tight or how loose to make your pieces.  Crimping is the final step that determines the tightness of a piece.  And sometimes a piece may SEEM loose enough until you bend it into the shape it will be.  The only remedy for too tight is to TRY to find a fragile bead (glass bead beads are the best) and break it with some needle nose pliers.  This isn’t a recommended thing to do and should only be used as a last resort.  If your piece accidentally ends up too lose, the only solution I can think of is to take a crimp cover and add it to the space (without a crimp).
Happy Beading!
Laura

 

 

 

Made it Monday-Earrings

// October 1st, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Kids Crafts, madeitmonday, Uncategorized

I love using polymer clay in so many different things and my new bucket list for the next few months is getting larger with the clay! This weekend I made a pendant from polymer clay pieces I had left over and decided I would just incoperate together as one piece. It was thick but I rolled it out and cut it into a square shape and then imprinted my stamp in it. I turned it so the shape was a diamond and pierced it with a hole. I baked it according to the manufacturers instructions and let it cool.
Once it was cool I used alcohol Ink and pearl-ex on it and made a beautiful pendant, which now I must make earrings for! This was such a fun, fast and easy project that I plan on having a throw all bag for all the little pieces left to do all kinds of crazy things with them! WHAT DID YOU DO OVER THE WEEKEND?

Next Weeks Tuesday Shmoozeday Schedule Announced

// August 24th, 2012 // Comments Off // Blog, Tuesday Shmoozeday

This week we have an exciting line up for our weekly Tuesday Shmoozeday. Tuesday Shmoozeday is your chance to watch an informal demo by members of the Things Crafty design team. We will also be interviewing authors of craft books and all kinds of creative souls in upcoming events, so stay tuned for that.

Kira will be live at 9AM molding unexpected things from around the house. So get out your Mold Putty and mold along with Kira.

Kelly will be live at 2PM showing you how to save money creating your own punchinella and stencils to use in your mixed media art.

Edie will be live at 7PM showing how to take an air freshener and turn it into a piece of jewelry.

How cool is this going to be, we hope you will join us! If you can’t make it to the live event all of the shows are recorded so you can still watch.

We are always having giveaways and this week is no different. Kelly will be giving away a beautiful handmade journal from one of our talented community members, Liz Rosky, make sure to be there at 2PM so you will have a chance to win.

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Design Team Features | Experience Something Transformational

// August 15th, 2012 // Comments Off // About Us, Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Blog

I love talking about our Design Team. They are a group of amazing artisans and crafters and each of them are wonderfully unique! This week I spoke to Design Team member Laura Bracken about jewelry and art and all things creative. Here is what she had to say about her journey to becoming an artist.

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Martiel: What is your art and how did you learn it?

Laura: My main focus is designing and fabricating jewelry.  I initially learned jewelry “on the streets”, so to speak, by trying to imitate designs I saw in books and online and by reading as much as I could about various jewelry-making techniques.  Since then I’ve learned that taking a class or two can be VERY helpful.  I feel both ways (self-taught as well as formal instruction) have huge benefits.  When you teach yourself, you tend to experiment more and work outside the box often stumbling upon new ways of doing things.  When you learn from an experienced craftsperson, you learn ways of working that can save time and effort and create finishing touches that may have previously been missing.

 

Martiel: What do you think is the most interesting thing about your creative expression?

Laura: Surprising people, making them smile.  Being able to share something that is new to others is an outstanding and rare achievement.  I manage upon it once in a blue moon, but continue to strive for it like some holy grail of jewelry making.

 

 

Martiel: What circumstances led you to sell your art/creations online?

Laura: I’m painfully shy and socially inept, so the idea of going out to sell or market my work in person scares me to death.

 

Martiel: If you could use only 5 words to describe your work, what would they be and why?

Laura: Organic, Experimental, Geometric, Minimalist, Transformation

  • Organic because often a design takes on a certain life or personality that strays from the original design and wants to just be a certain way.
  • Experimental because I like asking “what if” when designing and creating.
    Geometric because I like working with lines and shapes, mainly, throwing a bit of bold color in for accent.
  • Minimalist because I prefer clean lines (and shapes) and usually clear distinctions in monochromatic tones.
  • Transformation because I like taking an element and transforming it into something unexpected.

 

Martiel: If you could be color, what would you be and why?

Laura: Red because it’s usually vibrant and bold.  It’s a striking accent color and on its own creates the idea of energy and passion.  Although red possesses the qualities of a fine leader, it also seems to play well with others and is very inclusive.

 

Martiel: Anything else interesting you’d like to share?

Laura: I derive great pleasure from watching things transform into other things. To watch a sheet of metal as it’s worked with a hammer, or watch glass melt to be shaped into a bead, or to work clay into a structure and have a piece of fine silver artwork emerge from the kiln the next morning. To be able to take a few raw elements and alter them into a design that makes others happy is my supreme pleasure. I’m preoccupied by the idea that nothing enters our planet and nothing leaves our planet, yet the things at our disposal are constantly being transformed from one shape, design, function, and aesthetic to another. It’s like no one OWNS anything – we’re all just borrowing things from the planet, they pass through our hands after a certain length of time and move on to another person and eventually another concept.

 

Martiel: If someone want’s to buy something from you, how do they find you?

Laura: They can go to my website.  http://www.BrackenDesigns.com

 

Did you enjoy Reading about Laura? Share your thoughts on her profile or just stop in and say hello!

 

About the Author

My name is Martiel Beatty, and I am anthropologist, a life-long fiber artist and blogger. I have posted regularly on many sites as well as my own blog, Sewmantra. I am a Things Crafty Design Team member and work as the Social Media Manager for Things Crafty where I post reviews on products, books and arts-crafty stuff. Furthermore, I provide content on new cool things happening – and I share this with you though, you guessed, social media. I also own and operate my own online shop, Sewmantra and am the founder of the South Potomac Arts League in Central Maryland.

Martiel’s Online Stomping Grounds

Free Tutorial: Multi-strand Jewelry without a Multi-strand Clasp

// July 31st, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Blog

What you will need:

  • A cap or cone of some sort in which you will be hiding the “mess”
  • Stringing material (thread or wire)
  • Crimps
  • Two lengths of wire (preferably 20-22 gauge) about 4 inches long
  • A clasp
  • Wire cutters, round-nose, needle-nose pliers, crimp pliers
  • Project beads

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 1: Make a wire-wrapped loop at one end of your 20 gauge wire

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 2: Put a crimp and then a spacer bead onto one of your lengths of threading/beading wire

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3: Connect each length of thread/wire to the 20 gauge loop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 4: Put the straight end of the 20 gauge wire through the cap/cone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5: Add a spacer bead on top of the cone and make a loop with the wire

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 6: Slip your clasp onto this loop and finish up the wrap, then cut the excess wire and press the point inward

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 7: String the rest of your necklace/bracelet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 8: Finish off the strands at the other end by attaching the threads (via crimps) to  another 20 gauge wire loop (like you made previously); then you will see how easily the stem of that wire loop threads into the other cone (crimps hidden from sight)

Step 9: Make a loop on top of that cone and attach the other end of the clasp

A simple way to make multi-strand jewelry without a multi-strand clasp.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What is your medium of choice?

// July 24th, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass

There are so many different ways to create things these days. Have you ever noticed that when you go into a craft store that it’s an overwhelming experience that you almost become a person with an attention disorder? I have talked to so many crafters where this is a common experience because creative types just want to do everything.

Over in the ning network there are many great discussions happening, and recently I happened upon on a discussion you may have missed. Thus, if you make jewelry, check out the discussion on the mediums artists and crafters are using to create what they dangle from their necks and ears.

Furthermore,  you might even find something else that piques your interest and then who knows where you will end up.

 

Until next time,

Martiel

 

 

Cool2Cast Review

// May 23rd, 2012 // Comments Off // Mixed Media, Journals & Papercraft

I recently played with a new product from Tiffany Windsor called Cool2Cast.  Tiffany is the daughter of Aleene….as in Aleene’s Tacky Glue in the gold Bottle.  I know most of you have a gold bottle somewhere in your craft studio.  Many of you might remember Aleene’s Creative Living. It was one of the first TV craft shows and involved Aleene and her daughters Tiffany and Heidi.  Many of the guest crafters who appeared on the show continue to be leaders in the craft industry today and that includes Tiffany.

Tiffany brought Cool2Cast to the market to replace Faster  Plaster after it was taken off the market.  Cool2Cast was given a big introduction at the Winter 2012 CHA. Having never worked with a plaster product like this I needed someone to show me what COULD be made with it.  Unfortunately, in mid February when I first received the product a Google search ended with no practical hits.  Thankfully, in early March the Crafty Chica posted a video tutorial of some rings she made with Cool2Cast and embedded stones. Ok, now I had some idea of where to go.  I had some molds for making resin jewelry. I decided to make simple charms from plain Cool2Cast and then color and embellish after the charm had cured.

The directions on the product are to mix 2:1 Cool2Cast to water until the slurry has the constancy of pancake batter.  I did it  backwards adding 1/4 cup Cool2Cast to 1/2 cup water and  ended up with hot chocolate.  Realizing what I  had done I realized I had to add 3/4 cup of powder to keep the ration correct.  That made a big batch of Cool2Cast.  Too big.

The easiest method for mixing the slurry is to use a Ziplock bag.   Add the powder and water into a sandwich-sized Ziplock bag, remove the extra air, close the Ziplock and shake for about 1 minute.  This technique makes it easy to fill the small molds by simply snipping a tiny piece off one of the corners and using it as a  pastry bag to direct the slurry wherever you need it.   I will admit that big batch made it harder to control the baggie and I was sloppy and overfilled the molds.  In hindsight this was a big mistake  and next time I will be very careful to NOT overfill the molds.  Thankfully, a little sand paper fixed the problem on most of the pieces.  On the other hand, under filling molds leave the charm wonky and unusable as well. Filling the molds exactly is the way to go.  Once the molds are filled it is important to tap the edges of the mold to release the air bubbles.  Let the pieces dry for an hour before unmolding.  Once they are unmolded they need to dry several hours or overnight.

Once my pieces were ready for decorating, I started with color.  I used a Distress inks, Distress Stains, and paint as my base colorants.  I can say unequvically  that Cool2Cast takes color beautifully.  In fact I was super impressed at how well it took the color.  Tiffany used alcohol inks in a recent tutorial and the results are specular.  She simply dripped the ink directly onto the piece, allowing the different colors to drip into each other and giving the pieces an almost gemstone appearance.

Here are my Cool2Cast pieces…

Rubber Stamped The first piece I made is colored with Worn Lipstick Distress Stain over the entire base.  I stamped the honeycomb using black Archival ink and a stamp from Rhonna Farrer’s My Minds Eye collection Follow Your Heart.  I stamped the bees (same collection) with Distress Embossing Powder and sprinkled with Cricket Zing Embossing powder and heat embossed the piece.  I cut out the word “honey?” and glue  it in place with Glossy Accents before I covered the entire piece with a layer of Chandelier Glimmer Glam for shine and sparkle. Finally I added a pin back with E6000 glue. This second piece is a pretty little silver heart.  I began by painting it with 2 coats of Silver Paint Dabber.  After the paint dried, I used rub-ons (heart and swirls) to add details.  Finally, I added flat-back pearls and a single red rhinestone glued on with Glossy Accents and glued a pin back on the back with E6000. This third piece is interesting.  Excuse the bad photo but I wanted to show the texture.  I painted it with Silver Paint Dabber like the heart but then I added Distress Embossing Ink and Old Paper Distress Embossing Powder .  The interesting thing about Distress Embossing Powder is that after you heat set it you rub off the releasing crystals leaving a textured, interesting patina.  This piece looks exactly like a rock- oddly shaped but a rock none the less.  I have no idea what to do with it but I love looking at it. My fourth experiment with Cool2Cast I “colored ” with tissue paper.  I used Mod Podge to decoupage the green gingham tissue paper on to the charm.  I added a rub-on butterfly, a cluster of pearls and the Idea-oogy ChitChat word “create”.  I glued a pin back to the back of this piece as well.  My 5th and final experiment ended up with this crazy heart embellishment.  I again used Worn Lipstick Distress Stain and added Worn Lipstick Distress Ink because I can’t get enough of the beautiful patina that Distress creates on Cool2Cast.  I covered the pink patina with silver glass glitter.  After the glue dried I rubbed off some of the glitter to leave a distressed finish.  Finally, I added silver tinsel ribbon to the back to frame the heart.  I imagine this used as an embellishment on a mixed media piece or maybe a crazy card… I don’t know yet.

Tiffany has a terrific video here showing how to embed objects into Cool2Cast molded pieces.  You can Google other projects- it seems new ones are going up every day now.  You can purchase a 1 lb box of Cool2Cast here for $7.95.

What have you made with a plaster product?

 

Danee Kaplan

www.rainingjellybeans.blogspot.com

Twitter: RainJellyBeans

Crochet Wire Jewelry: a review

// May 3rd, 2012 // Comments Off // Blog, Book Reviews, Crochet

I’m a newbie to crocheting with wire, so I was excited to get my hands on Crochet Wire Jewelry!

Overview of the Book

This is a beautifully-composed book with lovely projects and a medium-sized (but contains everything you need!) introduction.

Each crochet stitch that you’ll need to use is fully illustrated at the start of the book, so if you’re adventurous, you could use the patterns in this book without having crocheted before!

The introduction also contains fabulous tips on crocheting with wire… since it’s a completely different material from yarn. Reading the tips definitely prepared me for having a lovely-looking finished piece!

The Patterns

There are a wide variety of projects in this book: rings, broaches, earrings, necklaces, bracelets and even a belt and handbag!

The projects in this book have a modern feel, and quite a few could easily slip into your everyday wardrobe.

There are no difficulty levels listed in the book, but the majority of projects seem to use single or double crochet and would be appropriate for an advanced beginner. Experienced crocheters may not find the actual stitches challenging, but will enjoy working on projects with a novel medium like wire.

Pros and Cons

I think this is a lovely book, and would recommend it to anyone interested in getting started with wire crocheting. The highlights are:

  • Great details about working with wire and getting a fabulous finished product (which is a detail missing from far too many books).
  • A variety of projects that contain illustrations of any tricky parts.
  • An introduction to reading charts (and charted patterns are provided for some projects).

I don’t have a lot to complain about, but there were a couple of (minor) downsides:

  • Exact amounts of wire aren’t given, the instructions just say that ’1 spool of wire’ is needed. This makes it difficult to plan a number of projects in one shopping trip.
  • Difficulty levels aren’t listed on patterns.

So, if you’re interested in crocheting with wire, give Crochet Wire Jewelry a try!

Product Review: Cool 2 Cast Fiber Plaster

// April 2nd, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Blog

I received a sample of Cool 2 Cast Fiber Plaster and some push molds and I have to say I love this product. It makes my head spin with ideas.

Cool 2 Cast

Cool 2 Cast

It’s super easy to use! Just mix with water, pour into the molds (I like to tap them on a flat surface like a table a couple of times to settle the mix, we used to do that with plaster of paris when it was watered down back in school) and let it set up for about an hour.

The possibilities are really limitless. I have plans to use some brightly colored tissue paper and mod podge to do stained glass backgrounds and then stamp over those.

What I had on hand though, were some markers, a big set of Prismacolor Watercolor pencils and some matte finish Krylon. So I decided to do some art. :)

The first is a necklace I call ‘Gar’. It’s based on an old Celtic design.

Gar

Gar

The second is destined to be a pair of earrings with the working title of ‘Day and Night in Hill Country’. I live in Texas and of course this time of year bluebonnets are everywhere. My day job takes me on long trips so I see lots of fields and meadows. I love old broken down fences and flowers, it’s a combination I never get tired of looking at.  These obviously aren’t finished but I have glued the Ultrasuede backing on, that’s the choppy looking stuff around the edges.  That’s how I attach my beadweaving and by the time it’s finished those rough edges won’t show.  I thought you might like to see a piece in progress though.  You can also see that the casted pieces are thick and I like that.  An added bonus is anything made with Cool 2 Cast is feather light so you can go big and austentatious and not have to be afraid that you’ll feel like you’re wearing bowling balls in your ears, always a plus.

Hill Country Day & Night Earrings

Hill Country Day & Night Earrings

Pick up some Cool 2 Cast and see what you can do! You can paint, stamp, glue…..I even carved around on these. The extremely white lines and dots are where I actually carved into the Cool 2 Cast with one of my little files.

Also, if you should pull your pieces of of the mold and find a slight blemish (which is actually really rare, I was *very* impressed with the lack of lumps and/or bubbles) it’s easy to use a fine file or fine sandpaper to smooth the surface. Heck, use a fingernail file or buffer, we all have those!

I’m having so much fun with my Cool 2 Cast, I know you will too. :D

Book Review: Stitch Workshop – Peyote Stitch (basic technique, advanced results)

// March 1st, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Book Reviews

Click the book to purchase it from the publisher.

Stitch Workshop: Peyote Stitch

Peyote Stitch Workshop!

 

I. love. this. book. <3

I don’t normally gush over a book but I’m gushing, can you tell? ;)

Moreover, I am completely enamored of one particular design. I loved it so much after making the first blue cuff:

Monochromatic Blues

Monochromatic Blues

that I made a second for my daughter in rainbow colors with a matte white background.

Rainbow Cubes

Rainbow Cubes

 

 

Rainbow Cubes

Rainbow Cubes

 

I used my own 12mm lampwork rainbow orbs for the clasps on both bracelets.

You can use 4mm cubes! I love 4mm cubes and rarely get to use them.

There are other designs that use cubes as well as rivolis, pearls, tube beads, crystals, and anything else you can think of. The cuff pictured at the top left on the cover is perfect as a base for freeform peyote.

There are excellent step by step instructions at the front of the book for someone just starting out and the designs get progressively more complicated throughout so even experienced beadweavers will find designs to challenge them. Something for everyone!

The last two designs are an interlocking weave bracelet done with size 13 seed beads (or charlottes) and a wonderful pattern for vessels that will get you going down the road of sculptural peyote.

There are floral designs, abstracted butterfly wings which would make lovely earrings, several designs with a tribal feel and an exquisite jeweled bracelet with a plethora of rivolis.

If you’re thinking about learning peyote (and why wouldn’t you because it’s AWESOME) I would use this book as a jumping off point. It even explains clearly that starting row that gives us all fits in the beginning. :)

Happy stitching!

Astrid

http://www.etsy.com/shop/astridboyce

Let's go shopping!

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