Posts Tagged ‘beading’

Photo Tutorial: Crimping and Crimp Pliers

// November 3rd, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Blog

First, gather your supplies: 

  • Wire (I use Accuflex or Softflex 49-strand .019, this is a medium weight wire good for most beading jobs)
  • Clasp (only one side of my toggle is shown in this photo)
  • Beads that will go between clasp and crimp (make sure the bead hole is wide enough to accommodate two thicknesses of your thread/wire)
  • Crimp beads (I avoid plated crimps and thin metal crimps, opting for thick-walled gold-fill or sterling silver; I use 2x2mm crimps with 3mm crimp covers)
  • Crimp covers (not shown in this photo)
  • Crimp pliers (make sure you’re using the right size crimp pliers; “micro” crimp pliers are for 1x1mm crimp beads and will not work on 2x2mm crimp beads)

Step 2: String one crimp, then a spacer bead, then one end of the clasp onto wire/thread.

Step 3: Loop the wire/thread back through the spacer bead, then the crimp bead.

I do all that about an inch or so from the clasp.

Step 4:  Slide the short half of the thread/wire along with the two beads up toward the clasp.

Step 5:  Use the wonderfully dexterous fingers of one hand to pull the two lines of wire/thread in separate directions. At this point, don’t wig out if your beads slide down the wire a bit (aren’t tight up against the clasp)… try not to let them slip TOO far, but a little space isn’t gonna kill ya… you’ll see why in a second.

Step 6: Place the crimping pliers in a position so that your crimp bead is GENTLY resting in the SECOND set of indents on the pliers.

Now that it’s in position, you use that very talented hand again to pull the wire/thread strands to the sides, and slide your two beads back up toward the clasp if you need to… don’t press the pliers down yet… only enough pressure to slide the beads up.

Step 7: Gently smoosh the crimp pliers down, thus fulfilling the first portion of your crimping process.

If you did it correctly, you should see a “u” shaped crimp bead with one strand of wire/thread on each side of it (more or less). 

 

Step 8: Now you’re going to do the second part of the crimping process. You’re going to be smooshing that U shape closed. Place the crimp SIDEWAYS into the FIRST set of indents on the crimp pliers.

This is a step for which you must take extreme care. Go slowly… screwing up may wreck your entire piece of jewelry (unless you LIKE starting over from the beginning).

When you smoosh the crimp bead in these first indents, make sure your bead doesn’t slip (angle) and end up at a diagonal (or worse!). It must remain upright while you smoosh! You must fold the U perfectly in half.

Step 9: Success should look somewhat like this.

Step 10: Put whatever beads on that go on next, making sure their holes are wide enough to go over two strands of thread/wire.

Step 11: Cut the wire so that the end would end up in the middle of the length of the next bead to be strung on. The only problem you will ever have with this is if you string very loosely; then you run the risk of having your “tail” bit of thread/wire poke out and not be nicely tucked into a bead. If you know you’re going to string loosely, cut flush with a bead (see instructions for crimping the other end … coming up).

Step 12: Put your next bead on, making sure the tail of the thread/wire is tucked into it. All the rest of the beads (until the OTHER end of the piece of jewelry) will merely be strung onto this one thread/wire.

Step 13: Okay, now we’re at the other end of the piece. You put on all the beads you were going to put on and you finish (most likely) the way you started (bead pattern wise). So… the last two things on are a crimp and (in this case) a 5mm Swarovski.

Step 14: Loop that end of the thread/wire through the toggle end of your clasp (or whatever is the OTHER end of your clasp), and then come back around and go through the 5mm Swarovski (your spacer bead) and through the crimp.

… and through two (or however many you decide) regular beads (see note at end of article)… You’ve got room to move around up there, y’know… ’cause that loop around the clasp is plenty slack. Slide the beads however you need to in order to do what you gotta do. We’ll cinch it all up in a second…

Step 15: After you go through two or so beads past the crimp with the tail of the thread/wire, pull down on the tail while holding the last single-threaded bead. This keeps the beads on the necklace/bracelet in place, tight, and merely moves the thread/wire into its cinched up position.

… it is now cinched up…

Step 16: Crimp this bead as you did the other one.

This is what you should end up with.

Under my thumb is the continuation of the necklace.

Step 17:  Clip the short tail of the wire/thread as close to flush with that bead as you can, WITHOUT CUTTING THE LONG WIRE OR YOU WILL BE REDOING YOUR ENTIRE PIECE.

After you clip the tail, your piece should look like this.

Step 18: As a nice touch, we’re going to finish the crimp with a crimp cover.

Step 19: Place the crimp cover around the crimp (will not work with 2x3mm crimps or with crimps improperly crimped). I use my forefinger to hold the back of it up against the crimp while I do this.

Use needle nose pliers (or whatever works for you) to gently start smashing the crimp bead halves until they begin to meet (in a sphere covering your crimp). Now… I say “gently” here because these buggers seem to fall to the ground at least 10 times before I can complete my project. If it starts to slip and you smash too quickly, you will end up with a very crooked affair.

I stop before the crimp cover is all the way closed…  See why? It’s slightly off center. But I don’t wig out. All I was trying to do at first was close it enough so that it won’t fall off as I’m trying to work with it.

Step 20: Use  needle nose pliers to get a better “fit” on the straightening out and closing of the crimp covers (one on each crimp).

A couple of notes/tips:

  • Don’t do the crimps until you’re piece is complete and checked for accuracy and correct length.
  • I prefer to err on the side of having WAY too much thread/wire as opposed to the alternate which includes not having enough length to finish your project or having only just enough to fight and struggle with it during the crimping process.
  • Practice and time will eventually teach you how tight or how loose to make your pieces.  Crimping is the final step that determines the tightness of a piece.  And sometimes a piece may SEEM loose enough until you bend it into the shape it will be.  The only remedy for too tight is to TRY to find a fragile bead (glass bead beads are the best) and break it with some needle nose pliers.  This isn’t a recommended thing to do and should only be used as a last resort.  If your piece accidentally ends up too lose, the only solution I can think of is to take a crimp cover and add it to the space (without a crimp).
Happy Beading!
Laura

 

 

 

Bead and Button Show – From a First Timer’s Perspective!

// June 25th, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass

The Bead and Button Show in Milwaukee, MN – the world’s largest consumer bead show!  Just hearing that made me super excited!  All those beads in one place?!  Count me in.  A bunch of women from the local bead store have been going for years, and even their advice and tales didn’t prepare me for the show room floor.  This year over 1200 vendors showed up, and I think I didn’t even get to half of the booths.  Following is some advice on where to stay, what to eat, and some dos and don’ts for those thinking of attending next year!

How To Get There:
Train:
When I was told that our group would be traveling by train, I was excited!  I’d never been on a train before, and the idea of not having to drive for 6 hours was very appealing.  The actual experience was less than delightful, however.  If you will be traveling with a lot of heavy tools, do yourself a favor and either mail them, or drive yourself.  Lugging 50 – 100 lbs of luggage between connections is NOT fun.

Long layovers between flights usually don’t bother me – gives me time to eat, maybe shop a bit, but the few layovers I had while traveling by train were abysmal.  Union Station in Chicago is poorly designed.  It was hard to find a luggage cart (which costs $5!), and I never found a place to return it, so I ate the deposit.  I also couldn’t get a locker, so my layover was spent in the terminal, guarding my luggage.  There was no way to get from the lower levels to the upper levels with a luggage cart, or if there was it was so poorly labeled that I never found it.

The ACTUAL train ride was fairly enjoyable, but I did have a mishap in the dining car – they overcharged me for a meal, and when I caught the overcharge a few days later, customer service refused to refund the price.  They informed me I should dispute it with my credit card company, which I did.

Next year I’ll be driving!

Driving:
Driving can be a pain, and parking will be expensive, but it offers much in the way of convenience.  It doesn’t matter how much stuff you bring, none of your tools or purchases will be confiscated by uptight security, and you determine your own schedule.  Do you want to stop at the Cheesecake Factory on your way down?  Who’s going to stop you?!

Do some research on parking in the area, and take it into consideration when choosing your accommodations.  Once you get a spot, it’s better to take a taxi than loose it in some cases.

Flying:
I love to fly, but I have no experience with the Milwaukee airport(s), so I’ll just give a few quick tips.  If you are going to fly, bring some pre-labeled flat rate boxes so you can mail anything that might be confiscated by security.  You might want to check some luggage too, especially if you have a number of pliers or knitting needles with you.  Before traveling down I read a horror story by one woman who bought a complete set of Lindstrom Pliers (well over $300 in pliers) that were confiscated by airport security out of her carry-on luggage.  Not sure what they thought she was going to do with a 1/2 blade but still…

Where To Stay

Hilton:
This is the hotel that I stayed at for the first part of my trip, and one of the two host hotels.  I really liked  the Hilton.  It was much closer to all my classrooms than the Hyatt, and the skywalk was nice, as I didn’t have to worry about walking alone outside at night.  It was close to a lot of good dining, and had a few other nice perks (indoor water park, salon) that I didn’t get to use, but am looking forward to next year.  Fridges and microwaves were not included in the room, but fridges were available upon request.  I neglected to ask about microwaves.  WI-FI was $3/hour(!!), which I felt was ridiculous considering the price of the room.  There was free WI-FI at the Starbucks downstairs.

Hyatt:
The Hyatt is the other host hotel.  I did not stay here, but I can say that it is a longer walk to most of the classrooms, which might be an issue if you take a lot of classes.  It IS where ‘The Gathering Place’ is located, however; if you plan on socializing every night, this might be the hotel for you!  It also has a convenient skywalk to the convention center.  Again, in room WI-FI was expensive, but I am not sure of the cost, as I didn’t stay here myself.


Hampton Inn:
I spent the last night of my trip at this lovely hotel.  If it was connected to the convention center, it would be my choice hands-down.  The Hampton features free WI-FI, an in room microwave and fridge at no additional charge, a full hot breakfast (waffles, omelets, bagels, muffins, juice, etc.), and I liked that the room was more of a suite.  It had a sitting room as well as the bedroom area, which would be great for showing off purchases or what you made in class at night to your friends!  If you will be taking a lot of classes at night, be aware that you might have to walk or get a taxi back to the hotel.  The front desk mentioned that they might have complimentary transportation to and from the convention center next year, but check first!

Where To Eat
Miller Time Pub:
This place was great!  I ate there three or four times, and loved it every time.  On the weekends getting a table can be hard, as it’s a popular dining place.  I never checked if reservations were available, but it can’t hurt to call ahead!  I really recommend the cheese curds, Wisconsin cheeseburger, and the cheesecake.

Starbucks:
Typical Starbucks fare, what this place really has going for it is the free WI-FI.  If you start suffering from withdrawal if you can’t check our email, plan on visiting.  Also great for a caffeine boost for early morning classes!


Chophouse:
I did not eat here myself, but I heard from a few ladies in my group that it’s good, and it’s located in the Hilton, so it’s very convenient.  Steaks and potatoes!

Calderone Club:
This was a great Italian place right outside the Hyatt.  I had the spaghetti with meatballs, and sampled the chicken parmigian, both were fantastic!  I was less enamored of the cheesecake, but overall, would highly recommend eating here at least once during your visit!

Coming next…What to pack, Dos and Don’ts!

Book Review: Stitch Workshop – Peyote Stitch (basic technique, advanced results)

// March 1st, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Book Reviews

Click the book to purchase it from the publisher.

Stitch Workshop: Peyote Stitch

Peyote Stitch Workshop!

 

I. love. this. book. <3

I don’t normally gush over a book but I’m gushing, can you tell? ;)

Moreover, I am completely enamored of one particular design. I loved it so much after making the first blue cuff:

Monochromatic Blues

Monochromatic Blues

that I made a second for my daughter in rainbow colors with a matte white background.

Rainbow Cubes

Rainbow Cubes

 

 

Rainbow Cubes

Rainbow Cubes

 

I used my own 12mm lampwork rainbow orbs for the clasps on both bracelets.

You can use 4mm cubes! I love 4mm cubes and rarely get to use them.

There are other designs that use cubes as well as rivolis, pearls, tube beads, crystals, and anything else you can think of. The cuff pictured at the top left on the cover is perfect as a base for freeform peyote.

There are excellent step by step instructions at the front of the book for someone just starting out and the designs get progressively more complicated throughout so even experienced beadweavers will find designs to challenge them. Something for everyone!

The last two designs are an interlocking weave bracelet done with size 13 seed beads (or charlottes) and a wonderful pattern for vessels that will get you going down the road of sculptural peyote.

There are floral designs, abstracted butterfly wings which would make lovely earrings, several designs with a tribal feel and an exquisite jeweled bracelet with a plethora of rivolis.

If you’re thinking about learning peyote (and why wouldn’t you because it’s AWESOME) I would use this book as a jumping off point. It even explains clearly that starting row that gives us all fits in the beginning. :)

Happy stitching!

Astrid

http://www.etsy.com/shop/astridboyce

Let's go shopping!

Creative Options Bead Board With Folder

// February 17th, 2012 // Comments Off // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass

 

I was so excited when I received this new bead board in the mail last week by Creative Options! Let me begin by saying that it’s got great visual appeal. The lovely padded cover incorporates all my favorite colors; purple, turquoise and green. There’s a bit of orange too, but barely noticeable. The company name is even embroidered on in the lower right hand corner. Did I mention the visual appeal?? I couldn’t wait to open it up to see what the inside looked like!

On the left it has green elastic stretch webbing material to hold all your tools. On the right is a bead design board where you can lay out your design. It has a plastic cover which will hold your beads in place too. The bead board is held in place by elastic in the 4 corners, but is removable so you can set it up wherever you like while working. Also, on the lower left is a small zippered pouch which will hold any other small miscellaneous items you might have, such as needles, beading thread, tubes of beads, etc. A sturdy velcro tab holds it all closed for traveling. They’ve thought of everything and at a very reasonable price! I found it on Amazon for $17.94. You can also check your local craft shops, Michaels, AC Moore, Hobby Lobby, etc. If they have it, you can use your weekly coupons for even more savings. I absolutely love mine & can’t think of a single thing I would change about it.

If you go to their website, you’ll see lots of other craft organization products that they carry.

Stitch Workshop: Right-Angle Weave

// February 12th, 2012 // 1 Comment » // Art Jewelry, Beads, & Glass, Book Reviews

Right Angle Weave

I’m a huge fan of Bead & Button magazine. I’ve had a subscription for over 10 years, but right angle weave is probably one of my most challenging stitches. So I was looking forward to reviewing this book and trying out some of the patterns. I flipped through the pages and earmarked just about all of them to try. Shock, I know! lol!

This book is chock full of beautiful projects from the beginner to the more advanced. I decided to try the Crystal Ribbon pattern. This is a photo of the one in the book.

Crystal Ribbon

I made a few changes to it to make it more personal. Here’s my version, without the longer ovals.

All in all, I find this book to be a wonderful compilation of RAW (right-angle weave) projects for those wanting to tackle all sorts of projects. The only down side is that I personally would’ve liked to see more 2-needle RAW projects. I prefer it over 1-needle, but that’s just me.

Look for savings on Amazon for more craft, bead-work, or sewing books.